World-renowned surgeon Michael Nusbaum, MD FACS · FASMBS  ·  25,000+ patients  ·  Call (973) 998-9833
What Is Dermaplaning and Who Should Get It?
DERMAPLANE
The Nusbaum Journal · Skincare

What Is Dermaplaning and Who Should Get It?

A physician's guide to dermaplaning, its real benefits and who it's best suited for, from the Cedar Knolls, NJ skincare team.

Key Takeaways
  • Dermaplaning removes dead skin cells and fine vellus hair using a sterile surgical blade, not a razor.
  • It does not cause hair to grow back thicker or darker — that's a persistent myth about shaving any body hair.
  • Results are immediate — smoother texture and a brighter appearance are visible right after treatment, with zero downtime.
  • It improves how skincare products absorb by removing the barrier of dead skin and fine hair.
  • Not everyone is a candidate — active acne, cold sores or certain skin conditions may require a different approach.
Skincare

What is dermaplaning? It's a simple but often misunderstood treatment: a trained provider uses a surgical-grade blade to gently scrape away the top layer of dead skin cells and fine vellus hair — sometimes called "peach fuzz" — leaving skin smoother, brighter and better able to absorb skincare products. At Nusbaum Medical Centers, it's one of our most popular quick, no-downtime treatments.

What Is Dermaplaning, Exactly?

Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation technique in which a trained provider uses a sterile, surgical-grade blade at a shallow angle to gently scrape the surface of the skin, removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells along with fine vellus hair. Unlike chemical exfoliation, there's no product absorption time or downtime — the results are immediate and visible as soon as the treatment is finished.

It's a low-risk, relaxing treatment that fits well as a standalone service or as preparation before other procedures within our medical-grade skincare program, since smoother skin allows subsequent treatments and products to perform better.

Unlike microdermabrasion, which uses a device to sand or vacuum the skin's surface, dermaplaning relies entirely on a precise blade technique performed by hand, giving the provider more direct control over pressure and coverage across contoured areas of the face.

The Myth: Does Facial Hair Grow Back Thicker?

This is the most common question we hear, and the answer is reassuring: no, dermaplaning does not cause vellus facial hair to grow back thicker, darker or coarser. Hair texture is determined by the follicle itself, not by cutting the hair shaft at the skin's surface — this is true whether you're shaving legs or dermaplaning a face. The hair will grow back at its same natural rate and texture.

Where the Myth Comes From

The misconception likely persists because regrowing hair has a blunt tip rather than a naturally tapered one, which can feel coarser to the touch temporarily until it grows out — a purely tactile illusion, not an actual change in the hair.

This same principle applies to any form of cutting hair at the surface, including shaving elsewhere on the body, and has been well understood in dermatology for decades. Patients can pursue dermaplaning purely for its exfoliating and brightening benefits without any concern about altering their natural facial hair pattern.

The Real Benefits of Dermaplaning

Removing dead skin cells and fine hair does more than create a smoother touch — it visibly brightens the complexion, softens the appearance of fine lines, and allows makeup to apply more evenly without catching on texture or hair. Many patients also notice their skincare products, including serums and moisturizers, absorb more effectively afterward, since the physical barrier of dead skin has been cleared away.

Because there's no downtime or irritation typically associated with chemical peels, dermaplaning is a popular pre-event treatment — many patients schedule it a day or two before a wedding, photoshoot or other occasion for that immediate glow.

A Gentle Option for Sensitive Skin

Because dermaplaning doesn't rely on chemical exfoliants or acids, it's often better tolerated by patients whose skin reacts poorly to peels or strong active ingredients. This makes it a useful option for achieving smoother, brighter skin without introducing new products that could trigger irritation.

Many patients also simply enjoy the immediate visual and tactile difference dermaplaning provides, describing their skin as noticeably softer to the touch right away, which is part of why it has remained a consistently popular treatment across many different skincare trends over the years.

Who Should — and Shouldn't — Get Dermaplaning

Most skin types and tones can safely undergo dermaplaning, making it one of the more universally accessible aesthetic treatments. It's especially well suited for patients with dry, dull or textured skin, or anyone who wants a quick refresh without downtime before an event.

Who Should Wait or Choose Differently

Patients with active acne breakouts, cold sores, or certain inflammatory skin conditions like active rosacea flares are usually advised to wait or consider an alternative treatment, since the blade can spread bacteria or irritate compromised skin. A consultation helps determine whether dermaplaning, a chemical peel, or another option like Morpheus8 is the better fit for your current skin condition.

Patients on certain acne medications that increase skin sensitivity, such as oral isotretinoin, are also typically advised to wait until treatment is complete before considering dermaplaning, since the skin barrier can be more fragile during that time.

What to Expect During and After Treatment

The treatment itself typically takes 30–45 minutes and is entirely painless — most patients describe the sensation as a light scraping, similar to shaving. There's no anesthesia required, no significant redness afterward, and you can return to normal activities, including makeup application, immediately.

The American Academy of Dermatology recognizes manual exfoliation methods like dermaplaning as generally safe when performed by a trained provider using sterile technique. At our Cedar Knolls practice, dermaplaning is often paired with other treatments as part of a broader anti-aging program to maximize your results.

Pairing Dermaplaning With Other Skincare Treatments

Because dermaplaning clears away dead skin and fine hair without any downtime, it pairs well as a preparatory step before other in-office treatments. Performing dermaplaning immediately before a chemical peel or facial can improve how evenly the subsequent treatment absorbs and performs, since there's no longer a barrier of dead skin cells and hair in the way.

Building a Skincare Routine Around Regular Sessions

Patients who get dermaplaning on a consistent monthly cadence often build their broader skincare routine around it — scheduling other treatments, like Morpheus8, in the weeks between dermaplaning sessions rather than on the same day, to give the skin time to fully benefit from each treatment individually.

At-Home Care Between Sessions

Between in-office sessions, gentle at-home care — consistent sunscreen use, a simple cleansing routine, and avoiding harsh physical scrubs that could over-exfoliate already-smooth skin — helps maintain the results of your dermaplaning treatment for longer.

Why Professional Treatment Matters

While at-home dermaplaning tools exist, a professional treatment uses a surgical-grade blade and sterile technique that reaches a level of precision and safety difficult to replicate at home. A trained provider also knows how to adjust blade angle and pressure across different areas of the face, reducing the risk of nicks or uneven results.

Michael Nusbaum, MD, FACS · FASMBS
Medically reviewed by Michael Nusbaum, MD, FACS · FASMBS
Founder & Medical Director · 25+ Years · 25,000+ Patients

Board-certified surgeon and pioneer of one of the country's most successful medical weight-loss and body-contouring programs, based in Cedar Knolls, Morris County, and serving all of New Jersey.

What Is Dermaplaning and Who Should Get It?: Frequently Asked Questions

What is dermaplaning used for?

Dermaplaning is used to exfoliate dead skin cells and remove fine facial hair, resulting in smoother texture, a brighter complexion, and better absorption of skincare products immediately after treatment.

Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?

No. This is a persistent myth. Cutting hair at the skin's surface does not change the follicle or alter hair texture — hair grows back at the same natural thickness and color.

How often should I get dermaplaning?

Most patients benefit from dermaplaning every three to four weeks, aligning with the skin's natural renewal cycle, though frequency can be adjusted based on your skin type and goals.

Is dermaplaning safe for sensitive skin?

Dermaplaning is generally gentle and safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin, though patients with active acne, cold sores or active rosacea flares should consult their provider first.

Can I wear makeup after dermaplaning?

Yes. Because dermaplaning has no downtime or irritation, most patients can apply makeup immediately after treatment, and many find it goes on smoother than before.

RESULTS
Explore More

Related Reading & Treatments

Popular procedures and guides for New Jersey patients:

TRANSFORM
Book a consultation with Dr. Nusbaum
Cedar Knolls, New Jersey

Discover smoother, brighter skin with dermaplaning.

Schedule a dermaplaning consultation with Dr. Nusbaum's team in Cedar Knolls, serving all of New Jersey.